Written by Heather AtamanPhotographs from various trip members
The headwaters of the Green River begin in Wyoming’s Wind River Range. At 1,170 kilometres long, the river winds its way through Wyoming and Utah with a small section flowing through Colorado. The Green is the chief tributary of the Colorado River. On our route, except for the first two days, the river lazily winds its way through the Canyonlands dotted with the ruins of the Anasazi people, and the more modern explorers and settlers of the past few hundred years. We canoed close to 200 kilometres over 12 days on the Green River, with numerous stops to explore the remnants of past occupants of this desert land known as the Colorado Plateau. This plateau covers a large portion of the southwest and gives the area its distinctive tablelands or mesas. Over millions of years, the Green River has carved through the plateau and created some of the most breathtaking canyons in the United States.
Joining Gary and me on the trip were Iori Miller, John O’Grady, Mike Visschedyk, and our main trip planner, Dave Leigh. Dave took the lead on planning the canoe route, obtaining park permits, and setting us up with our outfitter, Tex’s Riverways in Moab, Utah. Dave from Georgia and Iori from Ontario elected to drive directly to Moab, and the rest of us flew to Denver and then drove to Moab. The drive from Denver to Moab is stunning. I have always heard of the trembling yellow aspens in Colorado. Crossing the Rocky Mountains on our way to Moab we travelled by world-famous ski resorts such as Vail, Breckenridge and Aspen. Yellow aspens, highlighted by the bright sun carpeted the lower elevations as we passed these resort areas. The geography changes dramatically once one crosses the mountain range, and the terrain becomes more and more arid entering the desert region. By the time we were close to our destination, it was otherworldly. The rock features, especially at dusk, were so eloquently outlined against the darkening sky.
Arrival in Moab, our base camp in Utah before our river trip, was an adventure unto itself. A renowned rock climbing centre and mecca for all things outdoors, it is a town full of fit and active people. On foot, on a bike or in a boat, people are drawn here to explore this vast area. There is also a very active off-roading culture in Moab. Right on its doorstep are the outstanding Arches National Park and the Canyonlands National Park close by. Suffice it to say, there is a lot to see and do.
After a couple of days touring the Moab area, we packed up our gear and headed to our outfitter, Tex’s Riverways. As always with an outfitter, it’s a process, but Tex’s have it down to a science. We met our driver who prepared us for our trip. There is a lot of essential information to be reminded of while paddling the Green River. One must have permits on hand for travel through the Labyrinth and Canyonlands National Park system. The rules regarding fires, toileting and grey water disposal are strict and enforced by park staff. Fires are permitted, but all the burn waste must be packed out. A groover or wag bag must be used to collect human waste and grey water must be filtered before disposing in the river. In other words, practice no-trace camping. The sensitivity of the environment combined with the popularity of the route demand these measures to safeguard its future for others to enjoy.
Finally, we were at our put-in on the Green River, a quirky little spot off the beaten track called Crystal Geyser. The only draw to this spot, from a tourist perspective, is to view the geyser which has a storied past. The first white man to report evidence of a mineral spring was legendary explorer in these parts, John W. Powell in 18691. According to Powell, the spring was not flowing or seeping but there were mineral deposits of orange travertine suggesting previous activity. In the 1930’s an oil company set up a drilling operation at Crystal Geyser. None other than Glen M. Ruby, of Ruby Ranch fame, which will be touched on later, led the operation. Ruby’s efforts drilling the test well for oil proved to be unsuccessful, and in the end the well, was abandoned. Left behind is a man-made geyser that constantly flows and erupts more violently about once a day. The water can shoot up to as high as 25-30 meters.
Upon stepping out of the van at Crystal Geyser, I immediately noticed the putrid smell of sulphur in the air and the sound of bubbling water. Once we’d unloaded and said farewell to our driver, it was time to check out the geyser. The mineral-laden water flows up and out of a pipe in the ground. At our viewing, it was coming out the pipe as if it was a gentle fountain. The water gradually made its way down a terrace of rocks that were heavily stained orange. It is noticeable that no vegetation grew where the minerals were deposited. In addition, unlike Yellowstone’s geysers, Crystal Geyser’s water is cold to the touch.
Our first couple of days on the river we paddled in mostly flat, wide valleys. The terrain supported large swaths of grassy areas. Much to our surprise, we encountered a number of Canada geese grazing on the luscious grass. Because of the relatively fertile land, there were determined people who came to farm the area. One ranch of note, Ruby Ranch is situated by the Green River. At one time owned by the same gentleman who oversaw the drilling of Crystal Geyser, it has had numerous owners over its125 year history. It is currently owned by the Rozman family and continues to raise livestock and produce cash crops. It should be noted that for a fee one can use a boat launch at Ruby Ranch as the put-in. Before we passed their boat launch we paddled by an outdoor museum of old and older versions of water wheels and pumps. In their heyday, these water collection machines were used as the ranch’s irrigation source. Modern water pumps are still in use on the ranch.
As we entered the canyonlands it became apparent we were in a geologist’s wonderland. The arid climate of the desert results in relatively little vegetation and has left the rock formations exposed for all to see. So unusual are the layers, colours and folds of the rock before you. I was literally witnessing the millions of years it took to form the landscape before my eyes. Paddling the Green holds many wonders and it is not a river you simply paddle. I t demands you investigate and take your time to embrace it all. What it offers is a calm, peaceful meander at your leisure. At most, we encountered Class I rapids on a handful of occasions. Otherwise it was a gentle float down with the current.
Along the riverbanks, even in the canyonlands, substantial vegetation can survive; native willows and cottonwoods once reigned supreme. These trees provided shade and nesting habitats. However, an invasive shrubby plant, the tamarisk, has moved in. There currently is an effort by the state to reintroduce native species and eradicate the tamarisk, a native of Asia and Africa. We did meet a group of researchers on the river who were assessing the presence and impact of these invasive species.
About halfway through our trip, we stopped at Mineral Bottom, a busy launching point for the Green River. It provided some amenities we appreciated including outhouses and a covered shelter to enjoy lunch. It was interesting watching the myriad of people coming and going from the river. The large coolers people hauled around were a bit of a shock to our group. However, in hindsight I suppose they double as the barrels we used for our food storage. Since our trip was self-guided, we were responsible for all our food preparation.
We planned our trip for October thinking it would be cooler in the canyonlands. However, the peak daytime temperature still hovered around 30C. Shade is one’s friend in this region and one must be well covered from the intense sun. Pretty much every day, was the same for the 2 1 ⁄ 2 weeks we were in Utah – sunny, hot, and barely a cloud in the sky. The upside was we were in a desert, and it cooled off quickly once the sun began to set making sleeping very comfortable. Many nights Gary and I did not bother putting our fly over the tent. The risk for rain was zero, and the spectacular night sky glimmered with stars.
Even though the fertile soil upriver, which lent itself to agriculture, had given way to the rocky canyons, another industry once was present along the river. In the 1950’s uranium mining came into prominence in the area. With an increasing demand for the ore, a series of mines were active at Bowknot Bend on the river right. Our group explored a site, which at one time featured a cable car and a barge for transporting miners, equipment and ore across the Green River. The mining headquarters, camp, and access to road transportation were on the river left. The cut cables are still on the site. Scraps of wood and a fairly intact cabin remain. I try to imagine the inhospitable conditions the miners faced each work day – searing heat and little to no shade to escape the intense sun.
The harshness of the environment leads one to ponder how the ancient peoples were able to survive and thrive. The desert climate makes most of the terrain inhospitable, but the fresh water of the Green River does provide a lifeline to all those willing to inhabit the area. It is generally believed the first evidence of human activity in the canyonlands occurred roughly 13,000 years ago. These first humans were the Clovis people and they are believed to have arrived from Eurasia by crossing a natural land bridge between Siberia and Alaska. During these times the climate was more temperate and supported the abundance of big game animals such elephants, camels, and bears to name a few. Remains of these creatures are still present in the dry canyonlands caves. Over thousands of years, the climate became drier and the food supply became scarcer. Consequently, the larger animals disappeared, leaving smaller animals and edible plants as a food source for the inhabitants. Farming developed as the ancients began to form settlements and became skilled at basket weaving and pottery . Rocks, wood and mud were used to construct granaries and dwellings. Granaries were essential for food storage and are fairly easy to spot along the Green River. Native American ruins, pictographs and petroglyphs found near the Green River are from the Anasazi people. Another name attributed to the Anasazi is the Ancestral Puebloans. It should be noted that the Fremont people were in the region over the same period.
Well into our trip at camp 7, we saw our first Anasazi ruin, a stone tower erected atop a butte, a hill with a flat top and steep sides. Only Gary and Iori had the gumption to scale it to the top for a close up view. I was prepared to wait for a gentler approach at the upcoming sites. At camp 8 a ruin was more accessible on foot, but the terrain makes one feel like one must be a bit of a mountain goat to get right up to it. So I was getting closer to a ruin but I would have to be patient. The next day, from our canoe, we could see a series of Anasazi granaries perched on the side of the cliff. Immediately begging the question, how did they access these structures? The highlight at camp 9 is access to Newspaper Rock, a fine example of Anasazi petroglyphs. The etchings are found on two large boulders of White Rim Sandstone, featuring handprints, animals, and human depictions. The story they tell we will never know. The 2 kilometre hike to the site is worth it not only to see the ancient rock art, at least 700 years old, but also the vista overlooking the Green River is spectacular. The clear blue sky gives one a seemingly infinite view up and down the river .
On the way to our next camp, we stopped at a rock formation known as Turk’s Head. A number of Anasazi archeological sites are found around it. The ancient granaries are easy to access and examine closely and perhaps the best place in the canyonlands to experience the Anasazi culture. So my patience paid off, and I was elated to poke my head in the small door openings of each granary, avoiding touching anything. The openings were carefully constructed with pieces of wood as head jambs and sills. Rocks were used for the rest of the structure. Looking closely, one could see the fingerprints of the Anasazi as they pressed in the mud remaining between the cracks. Some of us elected to climb up the Turk’s Head rock formation. A trail that takes one up, with some imagination, and we passed by another ancient structure, probably a granary. Near the cap or top of Turk’s Head is a huge flint chip site, once used by the Anasazi to produce arrowheads, or cutting tools. It was terribly hot on the exposed rocks of Turk’s Head so we did not linger too long. However it was worth the effort.
Denis Julien is the first known white man to paddle the Green River, a French-Canadian who came for the trapping possibilities. Beavers are common on the river and we saw or heard their tail slap on numerous occasions. Julien etched a record of his travels in stone. We saw one of the two inscriptions found along the river. The inscription tells us that he was on the river in May of 1836. I wondered what he must have thought about the canyon walls around him, the ancient ruins and not knowing what sort of hardship he might encounter around a bend in the river.
Additional wildlife we spotted along the shoreline were big horn sheep, ravens, swallows, wrens, bats, and various species of small lizards. The big horn sheep appeared curious, and stared at us intently. We only saw ewes with their lambs. The ravens were often perched on the canyon rims cawing noisily at our presence or swooping overhead. Now I understand why western movies set in the southwest usually feature these birds; they’re a fixture in the desert. I know the swallows in Ontario will dig out a nest from the dirt on a steep cliffside – not an option given the solid rock of the canyon walls. Swallows on the Green build a nest out of mud retrieved from the riverbank; it looks a bit like a small wasp nest except the opening is on the side not the bottom. The diminutive canyon wren is known for its sweet whistling song, providing an enchanting chorus echoing off the canyon walls. Bats play an important role on the Green River. They consume a copious amount of insects, and we would see them darting around us at dawn and dusk. We didn’t have a bug problem on this trip as long as one were covered up in camp. There were some pesky flies at some sites that tried to nibble ankles. At times on the river the mosquitos can be a nuisance but not for us. The desert lizards we saw were small and seemed curious about our presence. They would pop out of their hiding spots, perch on a rock or log and observe us as long as we kept our distance.
While canoeing we had some unexpected encounters with people along the way. One memorable encounter had us chuckling for days. We were looking for a particular historical site and we saw a young couple appearing to be packing up their canoe. We approached the shoreline near them thinking we would enquire about the location of the site in question. As we got closer it was clear they were buck naked! Gary still asked about directions to the site while the rest of us could barely contain ourselves. We saw them a few more times on the river, and I thought about how painful their sunburnt skin must be.
On another occasion, we passed by a flotilla of rafters slowly making their way to the mighty Colorado River. The rafts are slow on the Green River but a necessity for the churning waters of the Colorado. As it turned out, the two gentlemen 2 who wrote the guidebook we were using were part of the rafting group. We were able to have a chat and tell them how much we appreciated the information and excellent contour maps in the guidebook. It is not every day you happen to meet the authors of a book you are currently using to navigate your trip!
The Green River is a silty river. So, a water settling process is necessary before treating the water. Of course, over millennia the silt has been deposited on the river bottom and shoreline creating some challenges. Navigating the river by boat, one must be on the lookout for sandbars and stay in the flow of the current. During our trip, the water levels were low so despite our best efforts we all beached our boats a few times. Some strategizing is imperative to avoid sinking knee deep in mud when coming ashore. We found it helpful to pull up at a rocky outcrop or a sandbar. If necessary, we would paddle in hard to shore to try to get the bow on somewhat dry mud. Luckily, it had been rain free for weeks before our trip so the muddy banks were generally dry and firm. Going for a swim could involve entering the water from your canoe to avoid the mud or at the very least walk in barefoot. I determined it was easier to clean your feet than a pair of water shoes. I thought of the couple we passed canoeing ‘au naturel.’ Perhaps they were onto something – no clothes and no shoes means no mud to clean up!
Our group was in for a treat near the end of our route. One evening as we gazed at the stars and the rugged outline of the canyonlands we saw what looked like a spotlight. Then it became a pinkish red colour. We were in awe of what we saw but had no explanation for the phenomena. It only lasted a moment or two. No pictures were taken so we just kind of shrugged it off as something that might occur in the desert. A couple of nights later, at camp 11, we had a wide view to the north and we were ready with our cameras. We had deduced that perhaps we were witnessing the northern lights! But in Utah of all places, how is it possible? We made sure we were ready once it was dark, and as if on cue, a pinkish reddish hue appeared in the horizon, almost like a blaze from a bonfire. The canyon walls were illuminated by the lights and produced a magical backdrop to the scene before us. I had never seen the northern lights before so this was incredible, and to see them in such a remote location was extremely lucky.
It was as if camp 11, known as Stove Camp in the guidebook, was giving us a ceremonial send off with the light show. The next day we were at the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers. The Colorado is indistinguishable from the Green River at this point. Still silty, and with little current, it does come with an ominous warning about 4 kilometres downstream from the confluence. On the shoreline on the river left is a large sign warning of the hazardous rapids about 3 kilometres ahead. Thankfully, we only had 2 kilometres to go to reach our final camp at Upper Spanish Bottom. It is a large camp with a few other groups at the location. Many were staying an extra night to hike to an unusual series of rock formations known as The Doll House area. Our pickup by the outfitter was the following morning so all we could do was admire the impressive view of the Doll House from our camp.
Our jet boat arrived on schedule and the loading up process began. Ten of us were picked up with all our gear. It was not long before we were on our way up the Colorado River, past the confluence of the Green River to the Potash boat ramp. The trip was 80 kilometres and took only 2 hours even with a quick stop to pick up 2 more campers. We did pass by groups along the way making their way down the Colorado. Gradually, the landscape became more rolling and inhabitable. Ranches on large acreages dotted the desert with unfettered panoramic views of the Colorado River.
Potash boat ramp was a hub of activity; after all, it was Saturday. Our boat captain had us out of the boat and loaded up our bus in short order. The jet boat was hauled out fully loaded and trailered back to the outfitters in Moab. We were all ready for the amenities at our car camping location in Moab. We had a couple of days to relax, enjoy the pool, and talk about ideas for our next adventure!
References;
- River Guide to Canyonlands National Park and Vicinity, 2nd edition, Michael R. Kelsey
- Guide to the Colorado & Green Rivers in the Canyonlands of Utah & Colorado, 2nd Edition, Tom Martin and Duwain Whitis
I have done the Green River from Mineral Bottoms 4 times and from Ruby Ranch once. It was like reliving the experience reading your trip report and seeing your photos. Thank you for the well written report and the great photos! Lin Hark from Colorado
Hi Lin,
Thank you for your kind words. Paddling the Green River was an amazing trip and I still enjoy the photos too! My apologies for this delayed reply but I truly appreciate that you have a strong connection to the River.